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I only make toiles if the fabric I am using is really expense, or if it is a very complicated pattern I have drafted myself. I find that if you sew long enough, you know the major changes you need to make to most commercial patterns . I always cut with huge seam allowances, 5/8" is much too small for any fit adjustments later) so have plenty of fabric to deal with 99% of other fit issues which may crop up. If it is a new pattern, I always thread baste the garment together and fit it before machine stitching as well. I wait until I am sure the garment fits before cutting collars, as any adjustments made to the shoulder etc will change the size of the collar.
I almost always toile - sometimes I don't for simple kids outfits but then I usually make it in a cheap, usable fabric first so I guess I am making wearable muslins after all! I don't really enjoy the toile process - make it then make it again, unless I am using it to also work out style details and can play with it. And I do relish drawing all over my toiles! But as much as I am tempted to not toile - and I sometimes agonise over whether I can get away it, I just can't bring myself to miss that step. Its potentially a false economy to think you save time and money by skipping this stage because if things go wrong you could ruin and waste your proper fabric without hopes of salvage (oh to be able to "frog" a bad garment!) - that can be very costly. I ask myself two questions - can I afford to wreck this fabric? Can I replace this fabric if it goes badly wrong? Usually I either can't afford it or I love the fabric so much and know there is no more to be bought, so the answer is obvious. The one question I never ask myself is, do I want this item to fit well or will I just live the consequences if it doesn't. For me, one of the main principals of sewing garments for myself or anyone else is to achieve something that fits correctly throughout and unlike RTW.
I've never made a toile, mainly because until a few months ago I'd never heard of them. I think I was born at too young an age. I can see the benefits though.
I have never made a toile. Call me stingy but Any fabric/money spent on toile is less I can use for an actual garment!
I have never made a toile. Call me stingy but Any fabric/money spent on toile is less I can use for an actual garment!
I never make a toile BUT having worn several items that weren't quite right and uncomfortable to wear (my current tunic is one of them) AND seen a lot of yours and others blogs, I'm seriously considering doing them.